"Salmon of the Pacific Northwest"REFLECTIONS By: Mr. Donald Sprangers |
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Thursday; November 11, 2004: Mr. Sprangers (Day 1): Lights below pepper the landscape; some small, some huge. Cities and towns of various sizes, shopping mall parking lots, ball fields and neighborhoods illuminated below. Small, lighted arteries connect one major metropolitan area to another. At times there was great darkness below; agricultural areas and the great lakes. Our flight to Seattle illustrated the fact that we humans have created, and are indeed part of a big system of interconnected cities with goods and service provided by a network of interconnecting modes of transportation. Highways, trains, planes and boats connect the “life” of one city to the “life” of others. Cities, along with all their amenities; jobs, recreation, goods and services, shopping and the arts, truly define us as a very unique species. I think people often times take for granted the human lifestyle we have created, but for those of us who live in rural Maine where the nearest stop and go light is 45 miles from home, a visit to the city demonstrates a whole new way of life, much different than what we are used too. Our visit in Seattle will be brief before heading north to Mt. Vernon and the Skagit River Valley to begin our Salmon Restoration Expedition. The experiences gained during our week in Washington will expose us to the entire ecosystem and give us an understanding of how the work we do to restore salmon contributes to an overall picture of how humans have historically interacted with their environment (good and bad). Ultimately, the experiences of this week will lead us to a discussion about promoting a sustainable future. Today we will have breakfast in a small café up the road. We will then tour the Boeing Plant in Everett, hike Mt. Baker, and return to Seattle for a walking tour of the harbor, Pikes Market, the Space Needle and REI Outfitters. It is 7 AM and everyone is still sleeping. The skies are just now beginning to brighten. It is very foggy over Elliott Bay and Puget Sound. I was awoken by the sounds of traffic, trains and ferries. The people of Seattle are off to work. Discussion: *What impact do cities have on the environment? (water, air, land) *Are cities good or bad? Why? *Should everyone live in cities? Why? *Cities demand large amounts of electrical energy. What are the sources of electrical energy for Seattle and the Pacific Northwest? *What is the source of electricity in your hometown? *What sorts of environmental problems are associated with generating electricity? |
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Friday; November 12, 2004: Today we toured the Boeing plant in Everett. Due to security reasons, no pictures were allowed. Boeing once produced a plane every 3 days. Today they produce 3 planes in a month. The tour took us to the assembly plant where multiple planes were being worked on simultaneously. After the Boeing tour we opted for a hike in the mountains. We headed north to Granite Falls. We didn’t travel far before we found a fish ladder on the Stillaquamish River. The fish ladder was massive compared to fish ladders on Maine rivers. Everything out here in the Pacific NW is massive. The trees are big; the rivers are big, as are the hills and mountains. We also noticed that the river was severely silted. This is due to glacial flower (dust) flowing down from the snowfields high in the mountains. Later in the week we will hopefully visit these mountain glaciers. We proceeded up river until we came to a National Forest area with camping and picnicking areas. There was not much of a trail system, but we walked around and admired the Pacific Northwest Rainforest, the Stillaquamish River and a small tributary. The mountain landscape was peppered with large clear cuts visible from the road. I am sure we will have a discussion about forestry practices and there affect on water quality during our expedition. After returning to Seattle, we went out to dinner and toured the city on foot. We visited the REI Sporting Goods Store and went to the top of the Space Needle. We returned to the apartment and visited before turning in for the night. Tomorrow at 9:30 we begin our expedition in Mt. Vernon. |
| Saturday; November 13, 2004: We met our Earthwatch Institute team today. Barbara is the vice President of a food service company in Cleveland, Ohio. JoLeen is a local watershed volunteer who is a member of a stream team and is involved in local restoration projects. Hans is community outreach coordinator for the Jane Goodall Institute, Roots and Shoots Program in Oakland, California. Dom, Rick and Denise are high school seniors at Washington Academy and are members of the WA Youth Watershed Council and/or enrolled in the Field Ecology Program. Ralph’s wife Kathy is a fluvial geomorphologist.
Ralph Riley, Principal Investigator made PowerPoint presentations about the Earthwatch Institute and another about salmon habitat, threats, and restoration efforts in the Skagit River Basin. We traveled to Fran and Arn’s to unpack our personal gear. We had a quick lunch and proceeded to the Upper and Lower Hanson Creek to conduct population surveys. We recorded live and dead fish species, size, and number of redds. DATA: Upper Hansen Lower Hansen Coho (live) 3 18 Coho (dead) 1 1 Chinook 1 0 Redds 0 12 This data will be forwarded to the Skagit Fisheries Enhancement Group to aid them in the planning of future restoration projects. The Skagit is the only river flowing into Puget Sound that is host to all 7 anadromous species: Coho, Chinook, Pink, Sockeye and Chum salmon, Steelhead Trout, and two species of shad, Bull Trout and Cutthroat trout. This is very unique because all these species basically use some of the same spawning and rearing habitat at different times of the year. The ecological balance and interrelationships of these species is complex. Maintenance of healthy stream water quality is vital. In years past, large woody debris was removed from these rivers to enhance fish passage. Today, large woody debris is being put back into the rivers to enhance habitat diversity and complexity. Questions:
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| Sunday; November 14, 2004: We woke with the sounds of rain and widespread gray skies. Dressing for the weather, we departed to conduct population studies on Jones Creak and Beard Park Brook. We say a lot of salmon today. The rains lightened up for most of the day. All in all, it was a pleasant day.
DATA: Jones Creek Bakerview Park Bk. Coho (live) 7 0 Coho (dead) 7 0 Chinook (live 0 0 Chinook (dead) 0 0 Chum (live) 157 0 Chum (dead) 97 0 Redds 25 2 (2 questionable) After dinner the Washington Academy contingency presented a power-point presentation about the Atlantic salmon work they have been involved in over the years. We highlighted our chemical and biological water monitoring programs, non-point source pollution surveys, the Salmon Release Day Field Trip, community outreach efforts, and the WA Wetland Tree Nursery Project. We also highlighted the new Field Ecology Program and the Sustainable LIFE Curriculum, and explained how such a program can be aligned with standards-based education. Dom, Denise and Rick shared their post-secondary high school plans. All are attending college next year and value their high school experiences. The students explained their involvement in the Maine Envirothon competition and their involvement in the WA Youth Watershed Council. The students explained how these extracurricular activities helped shape their interest in salmon and the environment, and how community service projects take priority over the camping, canoeing and kayaking availed by their involvement. These students are true stewards of the land and are setting the standard for others who follow. Questions:
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Monday; November 15, 2004: Both Harrison Creek and Colony Brook drain fertile farmlands in the lower Skagit River Basin. The creek bottoms are muddy with silt and clay in most places. After 2 days of rain, the streams were clouded with silt. If salmon were present, I am not sure we would see them in the murky waters. Salmon typically pass through these lower reaches to more suitable spawning areas upstream in the mountain foothills. The data collected is as follows: Harrison Creek: Colony Brook: 0 Live fish 8 Live Chum Salmon 0 Dead fish 7 Dead Chum Salmon 0 Redds 0 Redds Colony Brook: Colony Brook had over flowed its banks due to the recent 2-day rain event and the presence of 2 or three beaverdams. The stream was muddy with silt much like Harrison Creek. Salmon conservationists welcome the added woody debris of the beaver dams as they provide habitat diversity and complexity to the stream. In Maine, beaver dams may impede salmon passage due to their height (8-12 feet). We found ourselves working very hard to high-step through the flooded riparian areas. We had to trek through blackberry brambles, thick bushes, and tall field grasses, all of which were flooded. Ralph reported that he has never seen a time when Colony Brook had not flooded the surrounding landscape. He believes the beaver dams keep the floodplain perennially flooded. Toward the end of our 2-hour survey we heard what sounded like a deer jumping through the flooded riparian zone or perhaps the beavers frolicking in a pool. To our surprise we found 8 chum salmon fighting against the small flow of water that flanked a beaver dam. We also found 7 dead salmon that had beached themselves on the grassy hummocks. The demise of the 7 dead salmon can surely be a testament to the threats caused by beaver dam obstructions. This beaver dam wasn’t more than 1.5 feet high and had a deep pool below. If nature were in full control of this situation, the outcome would be 15 dead salmon. Realizing the situation, we all agreed to assist the remaining salmon over the dam. We were able to capture and lift 5 of the 8 salmon over the dam to continue their migration upstream. One of these salmon probably weighed close to 15 pounds, one of the largest Chum salmon seen in these waters. This was an exciting end to a long strenuous trek along Harrison Creek and Colony Brook. Seeing the salmon was a gift since we had all given up hope of seeing anything based on the water conditions and the results of our past 2-hours of scouting. Salmon pics are available in the photo gallery. |
Tuesday; November 16, 2004: Baker Lake Region: Salmon Passage Survey on Shannon Brook and a No-Named Stream The teams collected the following data:
Fish passage is obstructed if:
Data: The team (Dom, Rick, Hans, Kathi and myself) collected data from the culvert to a location 900+ feet upstream. At this point we encounters a section of the stream that was over 300 feet long and had a vertical rise of over 20%. It is determined that salmon would have difficulty making it past this gradient over the 300-foot reach. Other factors such as the placement of suspended woody debris might also interfere with salmon navigating the falls. Since most of the larger waterfalls were constructed of down woody debris, these structures can be considered temporary and reassessment may be necessary at a later date. The result of our testing would indicate that this is not a particularly high priority site for future salmon habitat restoration. The hanging culvert at the roadside is not a threat to fish since the natural flow of the brook will impede fish passage above 900 feet. REFLECTION: The stream assessment at Baker Lake was breathtaking. I was in an Old Growth Douglas-Fir forest with trees 10 and 12 feet in diameter, and had a chilling alpine stream running below my feet (over my head at times too). The cascading water was loud making communication between team members difficult at times. Old growth logs littered the stream channel causing waterfalls and diversions. The air was clean and crisp, and very moist. As our team ascended the river, we collected the required data; everyone responsible for different parts of the data set. The climb up stream was like nothing I’d ever done before. It was breathtaking at every logjam, meander and pool. At times I simply stopped in my tracks to absorb the beauty of this place and reflect upon the vivid gifts that nature had presented. A picture doesn’t do justice, for the landscape, trees, water and air fill the senses making this an experience like no other. I am awed by this place. I am also reminded of a time when I was 10 or 12 and explored the hills, valleys and stream near the DePere Sportsman’s Club in Wisconsin. Fond childhood experiences exploring and relating to nature is what shapes one’s ecological identity. My greatest gift to children is to provide them with the opportunities to experience nature so they too develop an ecological worldview. A sustainable future depends on it! Salmon survival Against all odds Leaping upward through Mountain streams On cold, wet November Days |
Wednesday November 17, 2004: North Fork Sauk River: Old-Growth Forest Down Woody Debris AssessmentThe purpose for measuring the down-woody debris (DWD) on the forest floor is to record baseline data for future assessment of DWD recruitment. As DWD decays, it provides nutrients to the forest plants and the river system. Our research will establish a data set that will be used in the future for comparative analysis. Researchers will use this data to better understand the ecological relationships between the forest and the river, and how this might relate to the health of salmon populations. The Old-Growth Forest Test Plot study involves the following measurements:
Our research focused on measuring:
We also took time to clear up and confirm some questionable data points collected earlier this summer. Tree locations and core samples were collected for about a dozen trees on this 1 hector plot. Plot size: 75’ x 150’. Our research team was divided into two small groups, one lead by Ralph Riley and the other by Karl Kruger of the Skagit Watershed Council. The dominant tree species in the forest consisted of Pacific Silver Fir, and Pacific Red Cedar. The trees towered 200+ feet above us. Little sun reached the forest floor. It was damp and cool as we crawled over and along the giants that had fallen to the forest floor, measuring and recording as we go. At 1:30 PM the sun fell behind the mountain ridge above us, and the air temperature cooled considerably. I wish I had a thermometer to record this temperature drop because it was very significant. Everyone seemed a bit cold at lunchtime. Upon returning back to the National Forest Service guesthouse in Darrington, we prepared dinner and entered our data into the computer’s database. The day was sunny, clear, dry and cool. The Northern Cascade Mountains were blanketed with a fresh dusting of snow at the higher elevations. This made for some very bright and beautiful landscapes. We were first treated to a view of White Horse Mountain in the town of Darrington. We also stopped at a vista to view White Chuck Mountain. Mountain glaciers and avalanche alleys were visible on the slopes. On our way to our Old Growth Forest test plot, we stopped to view a bridge damaged in the spring flood of 2003. This was only one of the many bridges lost in the flooding. The National Forest Service has assessed all their bridge damage and is now prioritizing their rebuilding efforts. Replacing so many bridges will be difficult given the current state of the economy, however efforts are moving forward to meet the needs of the Sauk Indian Tribe so that they can have access to their native lands. Questions:
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Thursday, November 18, 2004: North Fork Sauk River: Old-Growth Forest Down Woody Debris Assessment (Day 2)
It’s raining. It’s raining hard. We allowed everyone to sleep in a little later today in hopes the rain would let up. The afternoon forecast is for light showers. So we packed up and departed Darrington shortly after 9:00 AM. Dressed in waders and raincoats we returned to the old growth forest plot to finish our measurements of the down woody debris. We also mapped the vegetative line along the river’s banks to monitor the changes as the river cuts a new channel over time. The river gradient and flow is much greater in the headwater areas than in the lower Skagit River valley, so we expect the river to alter its course with greater frequency. Vegetative cover and root systems help stabilize the rive banks. However, strong flowing streams often cut new channels, eroding the banks as they change course. This is Natures way. Ralph obtained an aerial photo of the test plot area from the National Forest Service dating back to the 1960’s. A quick comparison to the current day aerial photo shows the river cutting new channels and greatly eroding some riverbanks. This is not a new concept, nor unexpected. However, it is interesting to document the rate at which this change is taking place in relation to the vegetative cover and soil types. Weather this data can be liked to the health of the river as it relates to salmon habitat is yet to be seen. We returned to the National Forest Service base camp in the early afternoon. We entered our data and plotted some of our results. We then cleaned-up in preparation for an evening out to have dinner. A past EWI research fellow joined us for dinner. He has an interest in conveying science and history through the performance arts. He is currently researching the history, people and cultures of the Darrington area, and writing a play to illustrate this story. A group of artists with differing talents who took part in a recent EWI research project will all gather in Darrington next July to display their artistic works relating their EWI experiences. |
Post EWI: Friday November 19, 2004: Our salmon research concluded on Thursday November 26. We returned to Mt. Vernon on Friday morning at about 9:00 AM. Barbara and Hans caught the Airport Shuttle to Seattle at 9:30. Our transportation to Seattle would not be meeting us until 12:00 noon, so Joleen took us to Deception Pass, so named by Captain George Vancouver in 1732 after realizing that he had been deceived thinking he was sailing along a peninsula when in reality he was sailing around an island. Vancouver named the island after his trusted officer Joseph Whidbey. Whidbey Island is the second largest island in the contiguous 48 United States. In addition to seeing the San Jaun Islands, we say the massive dikes that make farming possible in the Lower Skagit River Valley. Farming and Aspen dominate the river delta, but the threat of urban sprawl is evident. Flat land is attractive to the developers but at the expense of loosing large tracks of farm land. We returned to Seattle in the early afternoon and walked down to Pike Place Market, a Seattle Landmark, for lunch and souvenirs. Fish, seafood and fruit markets along with craft, gift and food vendors lure visitors to the market place. We returned to our Seattle apartment to unpack, settle in and relax before meeting Meg Warren, EWI fellowship coordinator for dinner. We visited the Barns and Noble Bookstore prior to meeting Meg at her motel. Everyone enjoyed shopping at the bookstore. During dinner we shared our Earthwatch Institute expedition with Meg and informed her of our plans to disseminate our experiences after returning home to Downeast Maine. We compared salmon restoration in the Pacific Northwest with restoration efforts in Maine. We discussed school and community topics as well as educational plans for the future. The NSTA Convention was taking place in Seattle. Meg informed us of a workshop presenter who received a $10,000 grant to conduct salmon research. I inquired to see if perhaps the presenter was Scott Jordan from New York who I had collaborated with while in Washington DC last year. I was aware that he had received a $10,000 grant to study salmon. I made many attempts to locate Scott, but was unsuccessful. My phone call to his home the next morning rekindled our commitment to work together on his salmon project. I will continue to keep Scott informed of our efforts to work with state and federal agencies to monitor Atlantic salmon populations in Maine.
Saturday November 20, 2004: The weather forecast for Saturday called for partly cloudy skies so we opted to take our chances at viewing Mt. St. Helens (8365 feet). During our travels south on Interstate 5 we caught a glimpse or two of Mt. Rainier (14,411 feet). We arrived at the Mt. St. Helen’s National Volcanic Monument Visitor Center in Castle Rock under cloudy skies and a threat of rain. We thought our hopes of seeing Mt. St. Helens would be a wash, but after attending a presentation by a National Park Service Ranger and visiting many of the displays, we were informed that the skies were clear at the upper observatory. We departed for the observatory, collected some Mt. St. Helens ash from the Toutle River, and snapped pictures along our 35-mile trek to the upper observatory. The views of the landscape were awesome. Towering mountains including Mt. Adams, Mt. Margaret and Spud Mountain, deep valleys, and a gray desolated blast zone area dominated the landscape. I particularly took notice of the miles and miles of green reforested mountains that contrasted the blues skies above. The Weyerhaeuser Company is credited for replanting the forests that were devastated in the 1980 eruption. Today, much of the landscape shines with an emerald hue of Douglas fir. The clear skies enticed us to travel further south to sneak a view of Mt. Hood (11,239 feet) in Oregon. The views from the highway were rewarding. I thought it interesting and educational to visit the Bonneville Dam on the Columbia River. This dam alone provides the power needs of 500,000 homes. Harnessing the river for hydroelectric power generation is done at the expense of altering aquatic ecosystems and interferes with fish passage of migrating anadromous species, including salmon. Unfortunately, we ran out of time to visit the dam, the fish hatchery and the popular fish ladder. We did however visit Multnomah Falls, a 620-foot waterfall, and Bridal Veil in the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. We concluded our sight seeing tour at sunset and returned to Seattle for a late dinner and a visit with our host Charlie Scheffer. We organized our luggage and prepared for our trip home the next morning. |